Inside the Michelin-recommended pub in Leeds’ Kirkgate market

Not only is it the only Michelin-recommended market stall in Leeds, but The Owl also lays claim to being Kirkgate market’s first-ever pub.

Painted all in black, it could be very easy to miss The Owl were it not for the ornate, golden bird of prey knocker on the pub and taproom’s door – and for a little red sticker in the window proudly pronouncing “Michelin’, awarded to the pub at the start of 2021.

But trust us, it’s worth seeking this place out.

First opened by fine dining stars Liz Cottam and Mark Owen in 2019, the pair behind Leeds’ Michelin-rated restaurant HOME, The Owl made history in Leeds as the first pub to open inside the iconic city center market in over 150 years.

Nestled in with the traders on Fish & Game Row, it’s the only place (probably) in the city where you can pick up three melons for a quid and also treat yourself to a Michelin-recommended dining experience under one roof.

Having grown up in pubs herself, Cottam has previously said she was ‘always drawn’ to opening her own – but this is no ordinary pub. Whilst it brands itself as a pub and a taproom, it’s so much more too: offering three different menus, spanning lunch, dinner and ‘grazing’.

We opted for a spot of mid-afternoon ‘grazing’. With a few pints on the side. Obviously.

As part of its pub offering The Owl works in collaboration with Leeds’ Northern Monk Brewery, so you’ll always be sure to find some special beers on draught here.

Currently on tap is their ‘Summer of Faith’ – a hazy rhubarb shandy that celebrates the best of Yorkshire rhubarb whilst simultaneously being packed full of sweetness – as well as the simply titled ‘Faith’ pale ale, a big, juicy modern craft ale packed with tropical, citrus and pine flavours.

It all comes out in special pint glasses illustrated with a graphic of Kirkgate market and a cute little owl, a lovely touch. The Faith also worked wonderfully with our grazing tray – which, incidentally, has to be the most affordable option out of their three menus: offering a collection of small plates for just £30.

These can all currently be ordered separately, but we were feeling greedy so we went the whole hog and ordered them all in one. And wow, was it worth it.

From miniature crumpets laden with cod’s roe and wild boar jam; to baked Lindisfarne oysters and guinea fowl toast with Dale End cheddar, every single plate that came out wowed us – right down to the marmite butter and sticky, malty ale-glazed bread.

When paired with homemade mushroom ketchup, the KFR (Kentucky fried rabbit) became an absolute revelation, its dry gaminess rounded out by lashings of the creamy umami-rich sauce.

Our absolute star dish, though, had to be the marinaded north sea bream, served with delicate little pickled onions that had just the perfect amount of crunch.

This is pub food like you’ve never had it before.

We’re aware that fine dining isn’t for everyone and we can understand why. That said, we feel like The Owl should be for everyone – or at the very least, for everyone that eats meat (for anyone else, it’s worth noting that the veggie options were slim whilst the vegan options were nonexistent).

Meat eaters, though, get stuck in. This is your spot. Surrounded by meat and fish stalls, it should be a given that that was going to be the case, really.

Find out more about The Owl and view its menus here.

Feature image – Dockstreetsigns.