The Guardian’s food critic Jay Rayner has headed back up north for his latest restaurant review as he visits Zucco in Meanwood.
Having opened a decade ago in the friendly suburb of Meanwood, Zucco has been a firm favourite amongst the Leeds foodie scene ever since.
Boasting a menu of small plates that changes daily depending on the season, customers can expect dishes made with only the freshest of ingredients inspired by "the thigh to the heel of Italy’s boot" as Rayner describes.
Zucco was opened by Rosario Leggiero who used to work alongside acclaimed British restaurateur and chef Russel Norman, who sadly passed away at the end of last year.
Images: Zucco
Jay Rayner focuses his review on Norman's everlasting influence on Leggiero and subsequently Zucco, explaining that just sitting down for lunch caused him to start "thinking about the brilliance of Russell Norman all over again."
Often referring to Norman's famous restaurant Polpo in Soho which is famed for starting the fashionable small plates movement, he says "it struck me that Zucco could not have existed, could not have looked like this, without Polpo first having been born."
When describing the food Rayner says it reminds him of the cooking at Salvo's, a restaurant in Headingley that is nothing short of an institution, "The kitchen is overseen by Rosario’s brother Michael who, for many years, cooked at Salvo’s in Headingley."
He goes on to say "the thing is, amid the 21st-century Polpo reference points, there is also more than a touch of the 20th-century Salvo’s about the food here."
Delving into a range of small plates from arancini and fritto misto to white risotto with ox cheek that he says is "quite simply perfect", Rayner comes to the conclusion that Zucco is a "note-perfect Italian".
A restaurant in which "all the essentials are attended to."
"It was pure coincidence that I had lunch at Zucco in the same week as I attended the lovely memorial event for Russell Norman. But as I sipped my dark-roast espresso and looked about the room, I concluded it was exactly the right place to be."
A popular restaurant chain has closed permanently in Leeds city centre.
Popular pizzeria Franco Manca has closed its Leeds restaurant.
The chain was famed for its relaxed atmosphere, quick service and affordable sourdough Neapolitan pizzas that were on offer for as little as a fiver.
The chain occupied the site on the outskirts of Trinity Shopping Centre on Trinity Street, next door to Itsu and overlooking the back entrance of Marks and Spencer.
Hoardings have now gone up, signifying the site is now empty and Franco Manca has permanently closed.
Image: The Hoot Leeds
This can also be seen on Google when searching for the restaurant branch.
It was announced earlier this year that a number of Franco Manca's restaurants would be closing across the country.
This was down to a reconstructing plan approved by creditors for the chain. The brand said it had been knocked by “disproportionately high” UK taxes and a lack of business rates relief for hospitality.
Marcel Khan, chief executive of parent firm Fulham Shore, said at the time: “We are grateful for the support shown by our creditors today.
“Franco Manca is a fantastic brand with a strong heritage and loyal customer base. With this agreement in place, we will put the business back on a firm footing and press ahead with strengthening our customer offer and performance.”
The Leeds brand was not included in the initial list of restaurant closing, but it seems further closures were made.
Miami-inspired Leeds bodega to open second site in Horsforth following huge success of first
Clementine Hall
A sandwich shop in Leeds is expanding to the suburbs.
Famed for it’s toasted Cuban sandwiches, stacked subs and loaded breakfast bagels - Alfonsos Deli has made a name for itself for serving some of the best sandwiches around the city.
Such a good reputation in fact, that they’ve just announced a second location over in the leafy suburb of Horsforth. Get in.
Currently, you'll find Alfonso's in the Grand Arcade where their light-filled and airy space is slinging out sandwiches non-stop until sell-out.
Images: The Hoot Leeds
It's not just sandwiches, though. They're also serving up fantastic Cuban coffee, beer and even Cuban cigars.
Basically, it's everything you'd expect to find in a deli in Miami.
The team shared the news of the expansion on social media, confirming that a brand-new Horsforth site is on the way.
While an official opening date is yet to be revealed, the announcement has already sparked plenty of excitement among loyal customers, many of whom have been calling for a second location since the deli first opened.
Alfonso's has built a devoted following in Leeds, with its signature Cubano sandwich becoming a firm favourite, while its breakfast bagels draw queues of hungover punters through the doors.
The move to Horsforth marks the next chapter for the independent business, bringing its popular menu to a whole new neighbourhood. And they're in fantastic company too, in a suburb that is flourishing with independent local businesses.
If the success of the Grand Arcade site is anything to go by, the new deli is likely to be just as busy from day one. More details, including an opening date and the full menu, are expected to be announced in the coming weeks.
Good luck to the team, we can't wait to check it out.
Clementine Hall -
12th February 2024 
